13mm Solid Strip Overlay Flooring

13mm (overlay) solid strip flooring is solid hardwood non-structural tongue and groove strip flooring designed to be installed over a solid subfloor. It is precision-milled to 80mm and 85mm wide. Tongue and groove joints ensure a continuous and stable surface.

Suitable subfloors

13mm solid strip flooring is designed for any subfloor that is structurally sound, level, flat, clean and dry such as:

Block Parquetry flooring

Block Parquetry flooring is a solid hardwood timber product that is designed to be laid directly over a flat and level concrete slab, plywood or particleboard flooring. It is supplied in blocks 260mm long x 65mm wide x 18mm thick. Parquetry flooring can be laid in many patterns using contrasting timber species to create depth in design. Centre “dots” measuring 65mm x 65mm can be individually laid to create various patterns.

Suitable subfloors

Parquetry flooring is designed for any subfloor that is structurally sound, level, flat, clean and dry such as:

2. Decking

Decking is a solid hardwood timber product that is designed to be laid outdoors directly onto structural bearers and joists or can be used for fencing, gates or seating. It is precision milled with round edges to a variety of widths in a smooth finish on both sides of the board. Suitable subfloors Decking is designed for bearers and joists that are structurally sound as per the Australian Standard AS1720 and the Building Code of Australia:

Product handling on site

The packaging around Timber products is designed to protect it during transport only. upon delivery the timber flooring and decking products should be stored indoors where they can be protected from the elements. Do not store outside using a protective covering such as a tarpaulin as condensation can occur underneath, defeating the purpose of the covering. 13mm solid strip flooring is delivered in strapped bundles. It is recommended that the bundles are kept strapped until just before laying.

3. Timber Flooring

Properties of timber

Timber is hygroscopic - meaning it is capable of easily absorbing and expelling moisture in response to local conditions. As timber absorbs moisture it expands and as it expels moisture it contracts. As such, factors such as relative humidity (atmospheric moisture), moisture ingress (subfloor or other), direct sunlight, air conditioning and lack of adequate ventilation can cause timber to expand or contract. Therefore, care must be taken to correctly assess the suitability of the site prior to the installation of timber flooring, as well as to maintain a suitable environment where the timber floor has been installed. Solid timber floors may need to be acclimatised to their new local environment before installation. It is important to allow time for the timber to adapt to the above conditions.

Prior to Installation

Before installing a timber floor, ensure the site conditions are suitable. A timber floor should only be installed in a weatherproof building. The project should reach near completion before installation begins to avoid damaging the newly fitted timber floor from heavy trade traffic. The roof should be complete, all external doors and windows installed, the exterior cladding finished and wet trades complete before a timber floor is installed. The storm water system must be complete or effectively directed away from the subfloor.

Acclimatisation

Timber is a natural product that expands and contracts with seasonal changes and is affected by the moisture content of the air. The moisture content of timber is the percentage weight of water present in the timber compared to the weight of the timber with all water removed. Moisture content varies with changes in humidity and temperature in the surrounding air. It is important to remember that small seasonal changes in timber flooring are considered normal and small gaps that open up during dry periods are not considered a defect, as gaps will close again during wetter periods.

To minimise the movement of a hardwood floor caused by swelling on moisture uptake and shrinking on moisture loss, it is important to lay and fix a timber floor that is close to the average moisture content of the environment in which it is to be laid. This guide outlines the procedures required to assess the site and acclimatise solid hardwood timber flooring for the best results. Site climate assessment every site requires climate assessment prior to the installation of a timber floor. It is important to know the long term relative humidity (rh) for the area where the floor is to be installed. relative humidity is the major influence determining whether solid timber flooring will absorb moisture from the air and swell, or whether it will lose moisture and shrink. If the moisture content of the timber floor is close to the average long term relative humidity for the area then subsequent seasonal changes will be minimal. however, if the long term relative humidity for the area is significantly different to that of the timber flooring, seasonal changes in the moisture content of the floor can create problems.

Solid hardwood timber flooring is kiln dried to approximately 9 to 14% moisture content as per Australian Standard AS2796. See Figure 1.0 onsite relative humidity is measured with a hygrometer. It is recommended that relative humidity (rh) and temperature levels are recorded prior to and during installation. The local site climate can be assessed using data from the Australian Bureau of Meteorology website at www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages Approximate average equilibrium moisture content (eMC) is provided for each climate in Australia. eMC is the moisture content that timber will reach under set conditions of relative humidity and temperature. Where seasonal variations are greater, seasonal movement (shrinkage and swelling) can be expected to be greater. Areas that experience high levels of seasonal variation require greater allowance for floor expansion at the time of installation. The site should also be assessed for adequate subfloor ventilation that is an important factor in reducing expansion and cupping of hardwood timber flooring. Where humidity remains high beneath a floor, the boards will absorb the moisture and expand. Important issues about subfloors

1. Air vents should always remain unobstructed

2. Number of air vents and size should meet or exceed BCA requirements

3. Ground level below flooring should be well drained

4. The subfloor ground should be flat, level and clear of any debris. It is also recommended that the ground below the subfloor be sealed with an impervious membrane, such as 200 micron plastic or vapour barrier. The plastic should be taped continuously with a 200mm overlap. As subfloor conditions can change, this alone can greatly improve the performance of a timber floor in the future. Internal micro climates The internal environment should also be assessed before installation. Within a dwelling, a number of

Some of the information regarding acclimatisation has been sourced from the FWPrDC document ‘Timber Flooring’ version one December 2005

climates may develop, causing areas of flooring to respond differently within the same dwelling. These include large expanses of glass, fireplaces, fridges, air conditioners, any appliances that vent warm air, the aspect of the house and two-storey construction. All of these can have an effect on the dimensional movement of the boards. When floors are exposed to direct sun through large glassed areas, protection should be considered before, during and after construction. evaporative coolers add moisture to the air and raise the relative humidity, resulting in moisture contents in the flooring that are higher than under ambient conditions. The likely movement of a floor after installation should also be a consideration when assessing the site. Small differences in moisture content between boards at the time of manufacture (5% is allowed by Australian Standards) together with variable conditions within the house (such as a west-facing room compared to a south-facing) will cause further variation in board width. For this reason, it can be expected that small gaps will occur at the edges of most boards, particularly during drier months. These gap sizes may differ across the floor. In cases where shrinkage may occur after installation, wider boards such as 130mm will result in larger gaps at board edges when compared with narrower board widths (e.g. 85mm).

Air conditioning that does not have a humidity control system, which is installed after a floor has been laid, may increase the size of shrinkage gaps, as it changes the relatively humidity in the area. Some movement occurs after laying timber floors as the timber adjusts to the climate. Although some floor finishes may reduce moisture content changes, they will not prevent this kind of movement. In cases where greater movement is expected after installation, such as from seasonal changes, the use of wider boards or from air conditioning installed after installation, particular care should be taken to ensure that the flooring finish does not act as an adhesive by bonding a number of boards together. With subsequent shrinking, wide gaps between groups of four or five boards may occur, or boards may split. Installation moisture content and acclimatisation Solid hardwood timber flooring is kiln dried to 9 to 14% moisture content as per Australian Standard AS2796. Where the average supplied moisture content of the flooring is near the expected average in-service moisture content, acclimatisation of the hardwood boards is not necessary.

Where conditions are drier, such as inland areas or air conditioned buildings, or where conditions are humid, such as in coastal areas or elevated regions, flooring may need to be acclimatised on site. Acclimatisation is the process of allowing partial equalisation of the moisture content of the hardwood timber flooring when supplied, to the moisture content of the surrounding environment in which the timber is to be installed. Note that the rate of moisture uptake varies from species to species and must be monitored on site for each individual site installation. Acclimatisation relies on each individual board being exposed to the in-service atmosphere so packs must be opened and restacked in a way that allows air to flow freely between each board. Acclimatisation can only be effective in dry locations during dry periods or in an air conditioned building if the air conditioning is operating at the time. Acclimatisation is only complete when the moisture content of the timber flooring is equal to the relative humidity (rh) in the environment. This usually takes about 14 days for 19mm flooring, but the time may vary depending on the species used and the weather conditions.

To check that the timber flooring has reached this point it should be moisture tested with an appropriate timber moisture meter. This reading can then be compared to the relative humidity (rh) using Table 1.1

13mm solid strip (overlay) flooring and Parquetry product acclimatisation 13mm solid strip flooring and parquetry should be acclimatised after the installation process has been completed. The flooring is left unsanded until its moisture content is equal to the relative humidity (rh) in the environment around it. This may take 7 - 14 days. In a dry in-service environment this type of acclimatisation may lead to gapping between the boards. If required, these gaps can be “trowel filled” using an appropriate timber flooring putty. In a moist in-service environment this acclimatisation method should be used with caution and extra expansion gaps will be required to take up the expanding boards. Inspection of the site, the subfloor surface and preparation

1. Conduct a visual inspection for signs of moisture possibly resulting from pipe leaks, window seal leaks, bathroom/laundry overflow problems, ceilings leaks or rising damp. Any signs of moisture ingress must be remedied prior to installation.

2. The subfloor must be dry and free of contaminants including but not limited to oil, paint, grease, dust, metal shavings, saw dust.

3. The subfloor is to be fully scraped with a wide blade scraper to remove all cement render spoil, plasterboard setting residues and mortar excess at the base of walls.

4. Make sure the concrete slab is flat with no more than +/-3mm deviation in a 3 metre radius as per Australian Standard AS3600 - 2001: Concrete structures. Deviations to the surface greater than 3mm over 3m are to be filled with a self levelling compound following manufacturers’ recommendations, or ground down to conform to the aforementioned specification for flatness. Note: When installing timber flooring over battens, unevenness in the subfloor can be remedied through the use of packers or by planing down the battens.

5. A concrete subfloor should be moisture tested in accordance with AS1884 - 1985 to ensure the concrete subfloor has a moisture content (MC) of less than 5.5%. If the MC is greater than 5.5%, a moisture/vapour barrier must be applied as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is also good practice to provide a 200 micron plastic membrane (builders plastic) as a moisture/vapour barrier prior to installation of your battens or plywood substrate. This can help minimise the risk of moisture uptake into the timber flooring from the concrete slab after installation. The plastic barrier should continue 75mm up the walls and all joins should overlap by 200mm. Joins should then be sealed with duct tape. The moisture/ vapour barrier should be installed according to manufacturers instructions. ensure a compatible adhesive is used with the moisture/ vapour barrier.

6. Timber substrates such as particleboard, plywood or existing timber floors should be sanded to create a clean flat surface.

7. If installing timber flooring over bearers and joists or a platform floor it is particularly important to maintain adequate sub-floor ventilation. If the area underneath the timber flooring is consistently damp (high humidity) this can adversely affect the timber flooring and lead to increased expansion and/or cupping. Subfloor ventilation should at a minimum conform to the Building Code of Australia, although in areas of high humidity or where increased exposure to moisture is apparent it is good practice to increase the surface area of the vents and/or install fans to increase air circulation under the floor. Subfloor vents should always allow for cross ventilation of the subfloor and must not be placed on only one side of a dwelling.

Installation

It is the installer’s responsibility to check all material for faults or defects prior to installation. Material which is deemed faulty by a representative will be replaced free of charge. Costs associated with the replacement of any faulty boards after they have been installed will not be accepted by Timber Flooring. Boards need to be mixed on the floor according to colour and feature. This is at the discretion of the installer and Timber Flooring does not accept any responsibility for the way the boards are laid in relation to colour and feature. Expansion gaps (control joints) expansion gaps and perimeter fixings should be planned before commencing the job. expansion gaps are a requirement of timber flooring. Due to the hygroscopic nature of timber the flooring will expand and contract with changes in moisture content. The allowance of expansion gaps at the perimeter walls and around obstructions will allow the floor to move as required. Insufficient expansion gaps can result in buckling and deformation of the flooring. Timber Flooring recommends a minimum expansion gap at all perimeter walls and obstructions of 12mm. For domestic applications floor widths over 6m will require an intermediate expansion joint as per Australian Standard AS1684. Where extra allowance for expansion is required (e.g. moist locations), cramping pressure needs to be considered. Alternatively, a series of smaller expansion gaps every 800mm to 1000mm can be used to provide equivalent spacing. If cork expansion joints are used, the cork should be approximately 2mm above the floor surface when installed. This will be removed during the sanding process. however, cork to the perimeter should be installed level with the timber surface. expansion gaps can be readily increased by under cutting plasterboard walls or through the use of thicker skirtings or beading. overall, the greater the expansion allowed while installing, the better. expansion joints are best placed at doorways or in line with internal walls. expansion joints help to break large floors into smaller sections thereby maximising total expansion gaps (refer Diagram 1.0).

Specialty Applications

For specialty applications, such as sports floors and some commercial applications, additional expansion gaps may be required and should be assessed on a site by site basis. For installation of commercial and industrial floors please refer to the document from the National Association of Forest Industries (NAFI): Timber Floors – Commercial and Industrial dated 2005. visit the NAFI website at www.nafi.com.au for a copy of this document. Acoustic systems There are a variety of acoustic systems available on the market today. Timber Flooring recommends rv4 acoustic underlay. rv-4 is well suited to reducing the noise of foot traffic in multi-level apartments and exceeds the BCA requirement of lnw+C of 62 for acoustic underlays for solid timber flooring. The product system is deemed to comply in accordance with ISo 140.6 and 140.8 as defined in AS ISo 717.2 - 2004.

19mm Solid Strip Flooring Installation

Subfloor preparation

Ensure subfloor preparation recommendations are followed as this guide. Battens or plywood Battens may be used to compensate for minor fluctuations in concrete level. For secret nailing, use 19mm battens and for top nailing use battens that are at least 35mm thick. lay battens 450mm apart on the plastic membrane at right angles to the direction of the new floor. Adjust levels with plywood or masonite packing and use masonry anchors to attach battens to the slab.

For the best result, it is recommended to use kiln dried hardwood battens to give the highest possible nail hold.

An alternative method is to fix underply plywood sheeting (recommended minimum thickness of 15mm or greater) to the concrete slab after first laying a polyethylene membrane (minimum 200 micron). For this application top nailing is not suitable.

Bearers & Joists

Existing joists should be inspected for structural soundness prior to installation of new timber flooring. ensure there is sufficient subfloor ventilation and clearance between the ground and flooring. The subfloor ventilation and clearance should meet or exceed BCA requirements. Air should circulate below the new floor from all four sides of the house. The level of the floor frame must be suitable for the installation of the strip flooring, ascertaining the suitability is the responsibility of the builder or floor contractor. A number of alternative methods exist to assess the floor frame. The method most commonly used is to place a straight edge of a minimum of 3 metres on top of the joists and assess the various high and low members. The joists can be planed down if too high or packed if too low. Care must be taken to ensure that the joists are not reduced in sectional size below that required under AS1684. This same structural requirement prevails in cases where the joists are “crippled” ie cut through over a support to reduce the bow in the timber.

Existing timber flooring

When laying a 19mm solid strip floor over existing timber floors make sure the existing boards are sound and not warped or cupped. Sand for an even surface if necessary. If the existing boards are very uneven, remove the entire floor and lay the new boards directly over the joists. The new 19mm solid strip floorboards may be glued using a polyurethane flooring adhesive and nailed at 90˚ to the existing boards. To run the new timber floor boards in the same direction as the current timber floor boards, a plywood layer is required between the new and existing floor boards

Laying the boards Sort the timber into two stacks: one of similar- length boards and one of varying lengths. Start by laying the varying lengths, longest first, in a triangle or “rack” from one corner. lay the first board with its groove towards the wall and leave a 12mm expansion gap all round the room between the floor and the wall (not the skirting, if any). This gap will be covered by the skirting. retain the existing skirting if the new board can slide under it. If not, remove the skirting. Continue each row by laying the similar-length boards in each row, adding and cutting short lengths to finish the row (still leaving a 12mm gap). There must be at least 450mm distance between butt joints in adjacent rows. refer Diagram 1.0 on the previous page. Distribute end-joints evenly Plain end boards must be joined on a joist. This is not necessary with end matched boards. Make sure all joints are distributed evenly and do not cluster in any one section of the floor. Push end matched boards together before using a tapping block to avoid damage to the tongues.

Nailing the boards

When the boards have acclimatised correctly, secret-nail them permanently to the joists or battens with a secret-nailing gun, or cramp them and top-nail with a traditional hammer or standard nail-gun. A secret-nailing gun will “kick” the boards together at the same time as it drives the nail in at 45˚. When installing over an existing floor or on a plywood base also use a polyurethane flooring adhesive as per manufacturer’s instructions. If nailing into plywood, nailing should be on every joist or at 450mm centres and alternate to the bead of polyurethane flooring adhesive, as per manufacturers instructions, between nail centres. If top-nailing the floor directly onto joists, attach floor-cramps to a few joists to lever the strips together evenly across the room. Floor-cramps may be hired from a reputable tool hire firm. Cramp nine or ten boards at one time - do not cramp two or three strips together as this may set up excessive strains in the floor causing over-cramping.

Recommended nails As a minimum requirement for secret-nailing use 45mm-long Powernail cleats - or equivalent size nail/staple as specified in AS1684. For machine driven top-nailing use 2.2 to 2.5mm finish-heads, 45mm long (2.5 times the timber thickness), 2 per joist. Scribe and cut the last board to the profile of the wall and tighten up by hand, or lever with a chisel. Sanding and finishing There are many different types of finishes available ranging from oils through to water based polyurethanes. Choose the best finish to suit the functional and aesthetic requirements of the job. At all times it is important that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. Do not use a product that will bond several boards together. This can create unsightly gaps as the boards expand and contract in groups, creating large gaps every four to six boards. Always check with the finishing product manufacturer to ensure that this is not a problem. Allow a curing period as per manufacturer’s instructions after completing the fixing of the floor before sanding, to allow the glue time to set.

The use of a professional sander and finisher to complete the sanding and finish stage of the job is recommended. Refer to AS4786 for sanding and finishing of timber floors. note: Curing periods can vary between adhesive products so ensure manufacturer’s instructions are followed. Framing the floor The finishing touches Don’t forget the finishing touches on your new timber floor. You will need to cover the 12mm expansion gap left between the wall and the floorboards. This can be covered with an appropriate skirting which should be nailed to the wall and not fixed to the floor. If you install your timber flooring with existing skirtings in place use a fillet mould or bead to cover the gap, fixed to the skirting and not the floor.

Secret fixing 19mm wide boards

The following procedure is for secret fixing 108mm and 130mm 19mm solid strip flooring by using a combination of flooring cleats and full trowel adhesive to attach the hardwood flooring to a solid sheet subfloor. This procedure should be used as a guideline for wide board secret fixing. Secret fixing wide board flooring requires skilled tradespeople, who understand the potential hazards of incorrect installation, and should not be undertaken by novice flooring installers. Acclimatisation Correct acclimatisation is critical for a successful installation. Knowledge of site conditions, both currently and in the future, are important for secret fixing wide flooring satisfactorily. For the best results secret fixing of wide boards should be undertaken where the seasonal moisture content change is limited to a 4% point swing, for example 9% - 13%. onsite testing and research into the anticipated moisture swings should be undertaken to confirm that the site is suitable.

Subfloor

The following subfloors are suitable for secret fixing wide board flooring:

The plywood or particleboard subfloor must have a moisture content that is within 2% of the acclimatised timber flooring being installed. note that secret fixing wide board flooring directly to floor joists is not recommended. Subfloor requirements Plywood/particleboard on bearers and joist system As per normal installation it is important to ensure adequate cross-flow ventilation in the area below the flooring. observe the following recommendations:

1. Air vents should always remain unobstructed.

2. The number of air vents and size should exceed BCA requirements.

3. The ground level below the flooring should be flat, well drained and clear of any debris.

4. The subfloor ground must be dry at the time of installation and should remain dry. It is also recommended that the ground below the subfloor be covered with an impervious membrane, such as 200 micron plastic. The plastic should be taped with a 200mm overlap. As subfloor conditions can change, this alone can greatly improve the performance of a timber floor in the future. Plywood fixed to concrete ensure the concrete slab is flat with no more than +/- 3mm deviation in 3 metres as per Australian Standard AS3600 - 2001: Concrete structures. A self-levelling compound can be used to level any variations. The moisture content of the slab must be 5.5% or below. If the moisture content of a new slab is too high, installation of the floor will need to wait until moisture content decreases to 5.5% or less. lay a 200 micron plastic membrane over the whole area and continue up the walls 75mm (to be trimmed later). overlap joins by 200mm and seal the entire join with duct tape. Plywood is then fixed on top of the plastic membrane as outlined in the Plywood handbook or www.plywood.com.au

Installation procedure

Laying the boards

Sort the timber into two stacks: one of similar- length boards and one of varying lengths. Start by laying the varying lengths, longest first, in a triangle or “rack” from one corner. lay the first board with its groove towards the wall and leave a 12mm expansion gap all round the room between the floor and the wall (not the skirting, if any). This gap will be covered by the skirting.

Retain existing skirting if the new board can slide under it. If not, remove the skirting. Continue each row by laying the similar-length boards in each row, adding and cutting short lengths to finish the row (still leaving a 12mm gap). There must be at least 450mm distance between butt joints in adjacent rows.

1. using a 5mm v notched trowel, fully trowel out a workable area (approximately 3-5m2 ) of polyurethane flooring adhesive, as per manufacturers instructions, onto the subfloor. A workable area is governed by the conditions that you are working in. The adhesive should not dry or “skin over” before adhesion occurs.

2. Place boards onto the adhesive with minimal disturbance to the glue.

3. Secret nail floor boards permanently to the subfloor with a Powernail secret-nailing gun (Powernail 445, 45r).

4. use 38mm Powercleats when fixing to 15mm plywood and 44mm Powercleats for 19mm particleboard or plywood.The secret-nailing gun will “kick” the boards together at the same time as it drives the nail in at 45 degrees.

5. Secret nail at 250mm to 300mm centres into the subfloor and no further away than 50mm from an end joint.

Limitations excessive swings in humidity and subsequently higher movement in moisture content will result in larger gaps or cupping in the floor - see Table 2.0 over the page for what can be expected as the variation becomes larger. Key points for successful secret fixing installation of wide boards

Sanding and finishing

13mm solid strip overlay flooring installation

13mm solid strip flooring is delivered in strapped bundles. It is recommended that the bundles are kept strapped until just before laying. Subfloor preparation Please ensure subfloor preparation recommendations are followed as per page 8 in this guide. Glue Down Application In all cases, the subfloor must be structurally sound, level, flat, dry and clean. Plywood plywood or particleboard is a good subfloor for 13mm solid strip flooring when free from wax and dirt. The subfloor must be level sanded prior to 13mm solid strip flooring installation. This will remove any other surface irregularities, such as edge swelling at joints. plywood sheeting should be a minimum of five ply 12mm thick. For further information request a Plywood handbook at your stockist or visit www.plywood.com.au

Existing timber floor

Timber flooring must be rough-sanded to remove any cupping or rough material. Sand to eliminate any unevenness and to remove wax or other surface finishes. It is recommended that the 13mm solid strip floor boards be laid at a 90 degree angle to the line of the subfloor boards to avoid possible subfloor movement that could affect the finished 13mm solid strip floor. If the above preparation is not practical then Plywood underply sheeting should be laid over the existing floor boards to act as a subfloor. To run the new timber floor boards in the same direction as current timber floor boards, plywood is required between the new and existing floor boards. For further information on installing a plywood subfloor request a Plywood handbook at your stockist or visit www.plywood.com.au Concrete slab

Nail/staple down application

In all cases, the subfloor must be structurally sound, level, dry and clean. Plywood Plywood or particleboard is a good subfloor for 13mm solid strip flooring when free from wax and dirt. The subfloor must be level sanded prior to 13mm solid strip flooring installation. This will remove any other surface irregularities, such as edge swelling at joints. Plywood sheeting should be a minimum of five ply 12mm thick. For further information on installing a plywood subfloor request a Plywood handbook at your stockist or visit www.plywood.com. au. A plastic moisture barrier (minimum thickness of 200 micron) needs to be installed under the plywood. Any joins should be overlapped by 200mm and taped to ensure that no moisture ingress (entry) is possible through the barrier.

Existing Timber floor

Existing timber flooring must be rough-sanded to remove any cupping or rough material. Sand to eliminate any unevenness and to remove wax or other surface finishes. It is recommended that the 13mm solid strip floor boards be laid at a 90 degree angle to the line of the existing subfloor boards to avoid possible subfloor movement that could affect the finished floor. If the above preparation is not practical then Plywood underply sheeting should be laid over the existing floor boards to act as a subfloor.

Installation

Block Parquetry Installation Subfloor preparation

Please ensure subfloor preparation recommendations are followed as per this guide and the instructions for acclimatisation also explained in this guide.

Concrete slab

Setting out

Find the centre of the room and strike chalk lines parallel to the walls. See Diagram 2.0. ensure that the lines intersect at right angles. If the room is not square, find the centre point of the room by snapping a chalk line at the centre of a and b as well as c and d (see Diagram 2.1). Measure right angle triangle 3 (900mm) and 4 (1200mm) and 5 (1500mm). Check the length of 5. If 5 is not the correct length adjust line c and d until correct. This is very important for correct placement of the pattern.

Laying the product Pour a quantity of recommended parquetry flooring adhesive onto the floor at the centre of the room and using a parquetry spreader vigorously comb onto the floor leaving ridges of adhesive the full depth of the spreader teeth (Figure 1). Sufficient adhesive for one square metre should be spread at a time. Select a number of parquetry blocks from various boxes (to ensure blocks are mixed) and lay into the spread adhesive. ensure the block has made good contact with the adhesive by sliding it into place. Keep the edge of the panel exactly to the chalk lines and continue laying blocks in the sequence shown keeping them tightly together (Figure 2). regularly tap the parquetry in the adhesive bed with a rubber mallet or timber block (Figure 3). Continue until the whole room is covered. Cut the last blocks with a handsaw or small circular saw leaving 12mm clearance from the walls. This expansion space can be covered later by skirting boards, beading or quarter round. At doorways the parquetry can be cut neatly to door jambs and architraves. Where parquetry meets adjoining solid floors such as stone or concrete, the expansion gap should be filled with a strip of cork or covered by a fillet moulding.

Important points to remember

Some of the products stocked by Timber state offices include:

1. Abrasives
2. Adhesives
3. Coatings
4. Fixing Tools
5. Flooring putty and wood fillers
6. levellers and sealers
7. Moisture Barriers
8. Nails guns and cleats - A range of nail guns and cleats such as Powernail 445, 45r, 50MA
9. Plywood - Plywood underply
10. Scotias and Trims - Prefinished, species- matched hardwood scotias and aluminium trims available in silver, bronze and champagne
11. underlay - rv-4 acoustically rated polyurethane underlay

Stringybark 13mm solid strip flooring

Post installation care and maintenance